holley sniper efi iac problems

Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. when things aren't working and this provides just that. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. shut truck off. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction. Ok, so I'm stumped! One of the best Ive seen so far. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. 1. Hello My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. Add To Cart. No problems with either cold or hot starts. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. Duty Cycle% = 3 Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. TPS 0. Thank you for your input. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. Why is this? If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. Definitely not 90. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. My problem is low idle. We do that but most places don't. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. holley efi. What can I do? The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an The fix? This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. Then your low idle problem will go away. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. I have a Holley Sniper EFI with HyperSpark ignition. It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. If they are closed, check the primaries. One of them might be faulty. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. 90% of time with engine hot. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. Glad to hear that things are working well! Then it started behaving oddly. While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. Any help would b great. However, it is a good question so I thought I'd throw a few bits of info out there that I think might help.First, I believe that you may have a basic misunderstanding of what is being referred to sort of generically as AFR. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM. That will at least tell you something. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? So the issue Im having is low idle. ps. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. I keep doing that with the same result. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. mean that the IAC is causing it. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. I.e. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. Or, at least, it should. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. As always, I recommend great restraint in changing any of the parameters until a significant amount of learning has taken place. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. I keep doing that with the same result. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use I'm running a 408 sbc. I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. Idle > IAC Kick. Hello Chris. Should I just disable idle timing control? The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. Should the iac% fluctuate? Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! The RPM would increase for no reason. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. Good I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. I installed the Holley gauge you suggested in another thread at the fuel input to the TBI, and the fuel pressure is constant around 64 according to the gauge. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. any advise would be appreciated. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) View Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. No timing control, coil negative ignition type. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. The tps will not auto reset to zero. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. I believe because the TPS is not registering. These problems will go away when you do that. That is what I really respect about Holley. have the system learn the higher speeds? Is this an issue to worry about? I put sniper on in hopes to be able to just turn key and start without fumbling with pedal to keep it going and to correct idle drop when ac kicks on. ChrisI finally got everything resolved. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! Interesting situation you have. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) check out the. )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. Hey Chris https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) :-). So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. issue. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Seems to behave more better now. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. Its timed to 36 degrees. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. Well you were right air was entering from another source. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. Save Share. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. IAC Pos.% = 0 Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) Reducing that a bit will help. Definitely would have went with you guys. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. Let They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. This item: Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black $71.72 Holley Sniper EFI 870001 Throttle Position Sensor $34.60 Holley 860004-1 92MM Sniper Throttle BDY $223.93 Customers who viewed this item also viewed Page 1 of 1 Start over Holley EFI Idle Air Control (Iac) Valve Motor 30 13 offers from $79.56 Thanks. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. Don't be surprised if one or the other is slightly open. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you.

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